Petra contains mysteries and scenic treasures

By GRACE HOUSHOLDER


A three-hour drive south of Amman, in southern Jordan, is Petra, where breathtaking architecture is carved into rose-colored sandstone cliffs.


Accessible only through a narrow gorge, Petra was one of the most easy to defend cities of the ancient world. Its leaders became rich through trade, good water management and by exacting tolls from caravans. Petra's glory days were in the century before Christ's birth. In the second century when Rome annexed it, Petra had about 30,000 residents.


Petra's temples, tombs, theaters and other buildings are scattered over 400 square miles. It is not uncommon for people to spend a week to 10 days exploring the area. But if you just have a day - which is what we had - you can still have an unforgettable experience.


To enter the ancient city you need to walk about a mile between towering sandstone cliffs. If you prefer not to walk you can ride a horse or take a two-passenger "chariot" that is pulled by a horse. As we walked, our guide pointed out the channels the Nabataeans had carved into the sides of the cliffs. Modern engineers say the Nabataeans were "absolute geniuses" at controlling rainwater to prevent flooding and to avoid shortages in times of drought.


"The Treasury," the first facade you see as you enter Petra, is world famous because of the Indiana Jones "The Last Crusade" movie. Carved into the cliff, "The Treasury" is so named because at the top of the enormous structure is a carved, stone object that looks like an urn. According to legend, the urn contains treasure. Chips on the inaccessible urn are the results of unsuccessful attempts to break it with bullets and stones.


"The Treasury" and many of the other buildings in Petra are tombs. One of Petra's mysteries is that no bodies have ever been found there.


Some of the tombs have colorful interiors. Splashes and swirls of magenta, midnight blue and ocher create pictures on the walls and ceilings that rival paintings in the finest museums. But the "masterpieces" are solely due to the natural colors of the sandstone.


Wandering around Petra are Bedouin children and adults, trying to sell everything from postcards to polished stones to camel rides. Bedouin families used to live in Petra's caves, but in 1984 the government moved them out into more modern housing. Now Bedouins only come to hawk their wares.


Following Petra's decline a few centuries after Christ's birth, most of its buildings were buried by sand which protected the carvings over the centuries. Petra was rediscovered in 1812. Now, without the protection of the sand and because of the growing number of tourists, there are concerns about how to best preserve the area for future generations.
As we trudged back to our hotel through the gorge we saw a large cloud of sand ahead. We stopped, hoping to avoid it, but, as we covered our faces, it enveloped us.


It was easy to see how over the centuries mountains of sand had swept into Petra to hide and protect it.


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