Church of the Holy Sepulchre site of traditional Calvary

By TERRY HOUSHOLDER


The holiest site of Christiandom, the Church of the Holy Sepulchre in the Old City of Jerusalem, lacks visual appeal from the exterior. But the ancient structure has an impressive interior that leaves many Christian pilgrims awestruck.


After attending a service at the Lutheran Church of the Redeemer next door on Sunday, Nov. 15, our group of 21 Lutherans from Indiana and Minnesota visited the great basilica that encompasses what remains of the rock of Calvary and the traditional site of Jesus' tomb.


Before entering the church, we were led by our Palestinian Lutheran guide through the Via Dolorosa - The Way of Sorrows - also known as the Stations of the Cross.


That is the traditional route Jesus took from his condemnation before Pontius Pilate to crucifixion at Calvary.


Nine of the stations are along the Via Dolorosa while the last five are within the Church of the Holy Sepulchre.


The route of the Stations of the Cross is not well suited for meditation by Christian pilgrims. It winds through noisy shops and backgammon hangouts. Many of the stations are not well marked. But the Lutheran pastor who led our group, the Rev. Rick Rittmaster of Bloomington, Minn., did an admirable job of reading appropriate Bible passages and commenting along the route, making the experience more meaningful.


The present-day basilica, the fourth on the site, was built by Crusaders in the 12th century. The original church was erected by Roman Emperor Constantine in 335 A.D. after it was discovered by his mother, Empress Helena, who had converted him to Christianity.


There is early archaeological evidence that the basilica is built on the site of Calvary, which 2,000 years ago existed outside the walls of the Old City of Jerusalem.


Oral tradition after the death and resurrection of Jesus marked the site for decades. In 135 A.D., Roman leaders erected a statue of Jupiter and a temple to Venus at the site to prevent the Christians from venerating it. That heathen church flourished and was found intact by St. Helena when she made a pilgrimage to Jerusalem in 325 A.D.


Consequently, work started on the demolition of the old Roman temple and the building of a Christian basilica covering the holy sites. A magnificent building was consecrated in 335 A.D. before a gathering of 300 bishops.


For the last 1,663 years, it has been a venerated shrine of the Christian faithful.


The churches of four branches of Christianity - Armenian, Coptic, Greek Orthodox, and Roman Catholic - share the building. Each branch jealously guards its rights to worship within the structure.


Other Eastern Orthodox churches within the Holy City also have privileges to conduct worship in the facility.


The holiest two sites are the traditional site of the crucifixion, which is surrounded by an ornate altar, and the area known as the Anastasis, the resurrection tomb.


Visitors to the tomb take time to bow before the altar and reach into it to touch what remains of the rock of Calvary.


A line of people formed at the tomb, which was strictly guarded by Greek Orthodox priests who carried incense to the entrance at intervals. One by one people enter through a low doorway to the marble burial chamber.


There are other notable Christian sites in and around Jerusalem, including the peaceful Garden of Gethsemane, where Jesus and his disciplines prayed and rested; Mount of Olives, the place of Jesus' ascension; and the Garden Tomb, which existed at the time of Christ and may have been the true site of his grave.


The Garden Tomb contains a rock-hewn grave and gives a clear idea of what the burial place of Jesus looked like. It is a simple, meaningful place for prayer and meditation.


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