Mountain driving in Norway not for the faint of heart

By TERRY HOUSHOLDER

Oh, my gosh!


I didn't say it out loud, for fear it would shake the confidence my family had in my driving ability. But those were the words I was thinking to myself as I first laid eyes on the massive nine-passenger vehicle that awaited us at the airport outside Oslo, Norway.


It wasn't the oversized van I had anticipated that I'd be driving during our two-week Norwegian vacation. With a rear cargo section that was bigger than some hotel rooms we've stayed in, it looked enormous.


But I quickly resolved to accept the rental from Europcar, since there was no easy alternative. Besides, it had what I required - nine passenger seats and an automatic transmission.


My wife, our four children, two grandparents, a family friend and I piled inside. By the time we were on the four-lane highway headed north toward Lillehammer, a roadway that quickly retreated into a narrow two-lane road, my confidence was restored.


This would be a piece of cake. After all, driving in Norway couldn't be more challenging than driving in the Swiss Alps, which I had done twice before.


I was wrong.


Norway is the most mountainous land I've seen. Most of the country is a high plateau covered with mountains. And the roads contained many more challenging experiences than I faced before. But the beauty surrounding the hair-raising passageways made it all worthwhile. We saw some amazing scenery, including breathtaking waterfalls that descended near our pathways, lush forests, colorful glacier lakes, snow-capped peaks, and the most famous sites in Norway - its many tranquil fjords - narrow inlets of the ocean bordered by steep cliffs.


If I could do the trip over again, I would not change a thing.


Norway's road system is excellent and well maintained. That's similar to what I found in other European countries. But what I didn't expect was the narrow roads, some which were only one lane, intended for two-way traffic.


Many secondary roads, including bridges, in Norway are only one lane. If another vehicle is coming toward you, one of you has to turn onto the shoulder of the roadway, which by design is minuscule. In some cases, someone has to drive in reverse to make way for the other.


This is incredibly challenging and unnerving for someone driving a two-ton vehicle who has very limited mountain-driving experience. To say we had many ''close calls'' would be an understatement. Every vehicle we passed was a ''close call.''


But my backseat companions were wonderful. Soon, the only shrieks I heard were about the amazing scenery just ahead.


Here are some observations I had about driving in Norway:


· Driving is on the right side of the road, which I greatly appreciated.


· By law, all vehicles must be driven with lights on, even in the middle of the day. The reason is because of the special light conditions in the country. Norway is so far north that there are long periods of low sun. This gives the light in Norway a very special color, especially in the winter. (It never got dark while we were there until after 11 p.m. and it was light by 4 a.m.)


· Even though Norway is oil-rich, thanks to the discovery of petroleum in the North Sea in the 1970s, gasoline is still expensive. Gas (they serve it up in liters) is about $2.75 a gallon. It cost us about $80 to fill up the Europcar. Thank goodness all the stations took plastic. We got the best currency exchange rate by using our American credit cards.


· Getting a driver's license in Norway is very difficult and costly. Few young people drive because of the expense - which runs about $1,500. Norwegians, especially those in the small cities, walk or ride a bicycle to get around. They also have excellent public bus service to even the most remote mountain villages. The rail system is also good, but its service is not as widespread.


· Toll roads in the country are nearly nonexistent. The few we drove on charged only a few dollars.


· Some roads that lead to remote mountain retreats are privately owned. Owners erect their own homemade barricades and collect their own fees.


The most fun I had driving in Norway was when the road ahead of me occasionally came to an end at the edge of a body of water (sometimes a big lake or a fjord). Happily, I would wait for a ferry to arrive to take us to the other side. The ferry rides - many which were only 15-20 minutes - had a calming effect on me. And I'm sure they had the same effect on my passengers.

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